Deliciousness On A Shoestring: Culinary Inventions From The Indian Kitchen

The thing that makes Indian cooking as breathtakingly diverse as India’s forests is not only that there are as many communities and therefore as many cuisines as there are leaves on a curry leaf tree, but also that a majority of Indian cooks operate on a tight, sometimes, skin-tight budget.

So, that makes us Indians crafty, inventive cooks. We have to make a little go a long delicious way.

So, we stretch.

That dal but ingeniously with a judicious lace of tamarind, a strategic tomato or two and a grand, final drum roll of a fill-the-house-with-lunch-is-served-aromatic tadka.

We ratchet up.

The masala in that curry, but only just so that nose may run in happy, mouth-watering appreciation along with the curry for a few more chapati-rice meals.

We substitute.

Some of the 120-rupees-a-kilo urad dal with a handful of the more humble 50-rupee-a-kilo poha in the idli batter, but only enough for the idlis to still have that pillowy fluffiness that is to something to die for.

We water.

That buttermilk, but only because we know we have, what in Kannada is called majjige soppu or majjige hullu, meaning buttermilk greens or grass, thus named because it mimics the taste of buttermilk and so will never let the guests know where the buttermilk stopped and the water started. (Incidentally, the English name of this herb is lemon grass!)

But most of all, we are crafty, clever cooks, because we figure out how to use every portion of an ingredient that the more economically fortunate amongst us would just throw away. (Stalks of the dried red chillies used in sambar powder are often never removed because they add both bulk and flavour to the powder!)

Especially when dealing with vegetables. Peel, rind, even seeds are all marshalled to make that shoe-string look like something that came out of a king’s kitchen. So, the peels of green peas transform into delicious bhajis, the ladies fingers’ tops are slyly shaved and slipped into the sambar for extra flavour and jackfruit are seeds converted to all manner of curries and poriyals, or even just toasted or fried and eaten as a snack. But some of the best examples of this cunning inventiveness are the delicious chutneys that are extracted from vegetable ‘waste’.

Here are some examples.

Ridge Gourd Peel Chutney (Serves about 2-3)

For the chutney

1 medium-sized ridge gourd (torai) – about 300 to 400 gms

The peeled ridges of the ridge gourd, cut into small pieces

2 tablespoons grated fresh coconut

1 green chillies – adjust to taste

2 teaspoons jeera seeds

1-2 small cloves of garlic (optional)

I large thumbnail size of tamarind

2 teaspoons of grated jaggery (adjust to taste)

Salt to taste

Method

Roast all the ingredients except the salt and the tamarind in a heavy tava or fry pan in low heat until the ridge peels turn slightly cooked, transparent and the rest of ingredients are slightly toasted and brown. Grind together with the tamarind, jaggery and salt to a chutney consistency.

For ridge gourd bhaji

Peeled ridge gourd diced into ½ inch pieces

1 ½ tablespoons oil

¾ teaspoon mustard seeds

2 pieces of dried red chilli

5-7 curry leaves

2 pinches to asafoetida

Salt to taste

½ tablespoon fresh coriander, finely diced

Method

Heat the oil; add mustard seeds and red chilli. When the mustard stops spluttering, add the curry leaves and asafoetida. Now add the ridge gourd pieces and stir fry for a few minutes till the pieces turn transparent. Now add the salt, reduce the heat to low and close the pan with a lid but not completely or else the ridge gourd will lose its lovely colour. If needed add a little water and cook till the ridge gourd pieces are cooked and the water is almost dried up. Add the fresh coriander, stir for a few seconds. Serve with the chutney, plain steamed rice or rotis – voila, you have a complete meal!

Snake Gourd Insides Chutney (Serves about 2-3)

For the chutney

Insides of a medium-sized snake gourd including the fibrous stuff – about 300 to 400 gms. (Make sure the seeds are soft and squishy.)

2 tablespoons grated fresh coconut

2 dried red chillies – adjust to taste

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

I large thumbnail size of tamarind

2 teaspoons of grated jaggery (adjust to taste)

Salt to taste

Method: To make the chutney, follow the recipe for the ridge gourd chutney.

Method: For snake gourd bhaji – follow the recipe for the ridge gourd bhaji.

Unripe Banana Peel Chutney (Serves about 2-3)

For the chutney

Peel of two large unripe bananas (peel thinly and diced into small pieces)

2 tablespoons grated fresh coconut

2 dried red chillies

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

I large thumbnail size of tamarind

2 teaspoons of grated jiggery (adjust to taste)

Salt to taste

Method: To make the chutney – follow the recipe for the snake gourd chutney.

For unripe banana bhaji

Peeled bananas diced into ½ inch pieces

1 ½ tablespoons oil

¾ teaspoon mustard seeds

¾ teaspoon urad dal

¾ teaspoon channa dal

2 pieces of dried red chilli

5-7 curry leaves

2 pinches to asafoetida

1 green chilli, diced (adjust to taste)

Salt to taste

½ teaspoon of haldi powder

Juice about ½ a small lemon

2 teaspoons grated fresh coconut

Method

Heat the oil; add mustard seeds and red chilli. When the mustard seeds begin to splutter, add the two dals. When they are golden brown, add the curry leaves and asafoetida. Now, add the banana pieces and green chilli and stir fry for a few minutes till the pieces turn a little transparent. Add the salt and haldi powder, reduce the heat to low and close the pan with a lid. If needed, add a little water and cook till the banana is cooked and the water is dried up. Add the fresh coconut. Stir for a few seconds more. Serve with the chutney, plain steamed rice or rotis.