Post-Poll Journeys, Dispatch 3: The Pulse Of A Punjab That Needs A Healing Touch

From Sri Ganganagar district, our journey took a northward turn, along the border with Pakistan, into Punjab.

The landscape transformed into a patchwork of diverse crops, punctuated by solar-powered pump sets — a testament to growing renewable energy adoption.

The agricultural prosperity was evident, with rice cultivation in full swing, starkly different from the fields we had left behind in Haryana.

Tete-a-Tete With A Khalistani Supporter

We pass through Abohar in Fazilka district and take the country roads, west Punjab, into Sri Muktsar Sahib district. The Battle of Muktsar in 1705 was the last battle of Guru Gobind Singh ji.

At the centre of the town is the magnificent Tutti Gandhi Sahib Gurudwara. The poster of the desecration of the Akal Takht in 1984 was plastered on the walls of the gurudwara. Framed photographs of Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale are aplenty in the curio shops.

Muktsar Sahib district falls in Faridkot constituency. Independent candidate Sarabjeet Khalsa (son of Indira Gandhi's assassin, Beant Singh) won from Faridkot. And the neighbouring Khadoor Sahib chose the separatist Amritpal Singh. The election of both of these extremists had sent shock waves across the country.

I befriend Charanpreet, a young sardar near the gurudwara. After some chai and jolly bantering, Charan and I speak about politics. There is something about Punjabis and Tamils becoming friendly quickly.

Charan inhabits a parallel world. From Khalistan meaning a "place for the pure", the Panthic sect, Bhindranwale, Amritpal, Pannun, having a large family, Guru Granth Sahib, the trifurcation of Punjab, bandi Sikhs, to Moosewala's 295 — our conversation pretty much covered everything culturally related to Punjab. He was very well (mis)informed for his age.

He and I had diametrically opposite views most of the times. It made me angry and sad frequently. But in a weird way, I did not hate the guy. He too was extraordinarily friendly as a person. "Too much of a bleeding heart," you may think.

If someone has differing points of view, one can argue with that person. How do you try to convince someone who lives in a different world?

It is scary that there is a cottage industry of organisations — religious, political, media — that construct these parallel worlds deliberately to sow dissension for political ends.

Political parties, mainly Aam Aadmi Party and Shiromani Akali Dal, pander to these instincts for power. Ditto with Tamil Nadu.

A Patriotic Interlude At Hussainiwala

I was reeling from the conversation with Charan. Bad roads from Muktsar Sahib to Firozpur through Sadiq added to my woes.

With AI (artificial intelligence) serving more customised versions of information to people that are increasingly becoming asocial, many technology watchers worry that each of us will be living in our own worlds in the near future. What it means for our society and citizenship are points to ponder.

I decided to take the evening off to witness the flag-lowering ceremony at the Hussainiwala border post.

It is the usual rambunctious spectacle. It was good to see woman cadets being a part of the ceremony from our side. Pakistanis made it utterly provocative and communal with "Pakistan ka matlab kya? La Ilaha Ilallah", while organisers from our side repeatedly exhorted us to not make religious or political slogans.

"Swadharmo Nidhanam Shreya" (it is better to die doing one's duty), read an entry to a camp.

Firozpur is guarded by the Madras Regiment. Its war cry is — “Veera Madrassi, Adi Kollu, Adi Kollu, Adi Kollu", meaning “O Brave Madrassi, Hit And Kill, Hit And Kill, Hit And Kill.”

It was pleasant to hear the yapping in Tamil just a few metres away from the Pakistan border.

Old Firozpur Is A Dystopia

It is an understatement to say that Firozpur was depressing. The crumbling infrastructure, the palpable chaos and the roaming drug addicts embodied a distinct Udta Punjab vibes.

There was a stark contrast between the well-maintained cantonment area and the deteriorating city proper. There was a four-hour power cut in the night (a consequence of electricity being diverted to farms for the paddy season).

In Firozpur, I had an eye-opening conversation with Paras, a young college student. He is keen to leave the country as soon as possible. He asked me if New Zealand was a better choice than Australia. He said that a lot of visa scams were going on and one had to be cautious.

When the topic veered towards local issues, he pulled out his phone to show the photo of his elder brother who had died just a few months ago of drug overdose. I was stunned by his nonchalance. Young guys in Firozpur go to Chandigarh and pick up these habits. Even women in Firozpur were getting addicted.

The worst part was when I learned that families and the larger society had sort of reconciled to losing a few sons and daughters to drugs. It is as if they had become inured to the menace. I later learned that even in weddings there were tents erected at the back to serve party drugs.

Paras pointed to the massive unemployment issue there. Youngsters go to Chandigarh, Delhi or Gurgaon for work. He was thinking of starting a salon before things worked out for him.

Paras had voted for the first time, and to the Congress. He said all of his friends voted for the Congress party. His parents apparently voted for the Bharatiya Janata Party, though. I ask why. He said his father believed that only Prime Minister Narendra Modi could sort out things in Punjab.

Firozpur used to be an Akali Dal bastion. It held the seat for 26 years from 1998. Even the party supremo, Sukhbir Badal, won from here in 2019. Ex-Akali Sher Singh Ghubaya won (for the third time) in the recent parliamentary election, this time from a Congress ticket.

Unemployment and nasha were the main issues here. It got repeated time and again. Any administrator that could find solutions to both of these will get the votes of Firozpur and the goodwill of India in the future.

Beyond Firozpur

The land of our great gurus deserves much better. The darker undercurrents beneath the prosperous facade shown in Punjabi music videos need deeper understanding.

I stop by for an hour at the beautiful Harike bird sanctuary. It is at the southern part of Tarn Taran district, from where the Rajasthan canal flows from Sutlej to Ganganagar in Rajasthan. There is still something left in Punjab to soothe the soul.

The resilience and warmth of the people I encountered, from farmers to hotel managers, from soldiers at the Firozpur Cantonment to the youth dreaming of opportunities abroad, was very genuine and touching.

As India moves forward, addressing the unique needs and aspirations of our border regions, not just through arguments but also through healing touches, will be crucial in shaping a more inclusive and prosperous future.

Also Read:

Post-Poll Journeys, Dispatch 1: What's The Mood Like In Haryana?

Post-Poll Journeys, Dispatch 2: In Sirsa And North-West Rajasthan, Unemployment And Exodus Of Educated Youth Are A Big Concern